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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:46 am Post subject: Peavey Heritage VTX 212 issue |
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I have a Peavey Heritage 212 combo amp with built in phaser and spring reverb from the 80's that I bought about 10 months for around $300-$350. It sounded great until recently. The guy I had bought it from just had it retubed with some Sovtek 6l6WXT tubes. One day after about 8 months the amp started making a loud humming noise, it does this all the time now. When it started doing it was when I wasn't even playing, I just left it on and went in the other room and all of a sudden this nasty loud noise was coming out of it. Some buzzing noise comes from the speakers when playing too. I was wondering what was wrong with it and was told maybe the tubes needed replaced. So I put in new Sovtek 6l6WXT tubes, it makes the same noise. I've never played this amp with the volume above 4-5 either Neither the new and old tubes seem to be dead or blown out to me. They glow they same orange tint they always have since I had gotten it. I ran an extension cab out of it to check if it was just the speakers, but I get the same humming/buzzing through the other speakers too. I ran a different pre-amp theough the poweramp and get the same noise as well so I don't think the preamp is damaged. I asked a local technician who said he was working on one and he told me that the vtx only was made for one type of tube and that they don't make them anymore and the tubes I have are probably bad, but I told him I had it running on the Sovteks , he was surprised and said that those tubes shouldn't even work in it. Every time I see them for sale online they always have the Sovtek 6l6WXT in them also so I don't think he knows quite what he was talking about, I dunno. He said he'd rather not deal with fixing a VTX, that they were built weird and that I should sell it for parts to someone and just get a different amp. I'd like to figure out what's wrong with it though even if I decide to sell it. Like I said, the tubes glow like they always have and someone mentioned tapping them to see if they make noise or anything, but they don't, they appear to be fine on both sets of Sovteks I put in. I get the same buzzing at all volumes. Is there any other ideas of what could be wrong other than the tubes on the power section?
I've got a picture of the tubes while it's turned on, but it won't let me post it on here.. |
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tw001_tw Fierce Poodle

Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 278 Location: St. Louis
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Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:55 am Post subject: Re: Peavey Heritage VTX 212 issue |
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| R88223 wrote: | | ...I'd like to figure out what's wrong with it though even if I decide to sell it. |
You don't happen to live near St. Louis do you???
That sounds like a great project to tackle.
I have to say, you did all the basic trouble shooting I would have done or
suggested - preamp / speakers / etc... I do think you are right regarding the
tubes - any 6l6 should work for some time without that buzzing noise. The
next step in trouble shooting, would remove the amp chassis, and visually
inspect the components. And after that, start taking voltage readings..
If you aren't comfortable doing that, don't - as it can be dangerous for
you and your amp.
welcome to the forum.
-tw |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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I talked to peavey and they think it's the filter caps. Peavey also told me any 6l6 tube will work in it and that the Sovteks are nice tubes. I have a picture of the tubes turned on if you'd like to see it. I live in central Illinois actually. I have a picture of the inside too. I'm not afraid of taking it apart (already did). It can't get any worse as far as I'm concerned, I was prepared to buy a new amp head and just use the peavey as a speaker cab. I actually went back and checked my paypal stuff and I actually only paid $225 for it after shipping so not that bad even if the amp is toast the speakers rock. remove the spaces and you'll get the images
img253. imageshack. us /img253/2811/dscn2448iv6.jpg
img45. imageshack. us/img45/6107/dscn2425ci6.jpg |
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tw001_tw Fierce Poodle

Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 278 Location: St. Louis
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 11:50 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | so not that bad even if the amp is toast the speakers rock |
OK.. Ok... I'll take the chassis off your hands.
(I was just joking about you being close to St. L. - you are pretty close!)
if It is just the filter caps, that'd be a great easy & cheap fix.
And what good support from peavey, eh? 2 decades old, not the original
owner, and they give you some direction? Nice!
For convenience:
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/2811/dscn2448iv6.jpg
http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/6107/dscn2425ci6.jpg |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Did you think the tubes look normal? |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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| are the filter caps the 4 capacitors on the right side, two big ones and two small ones? What precautions would I need to take if I were to replace them myself? Would some rubber gloves be a good idea? I'm guessing they're soldered in on the underside of that board so I'd have to take the board out. Also is there any way to test to see if the filter caps are in fact the issue? |
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tw001_tw Fierce Poodle

Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 278 Location: St. Louis
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, your tubes look pretty normal.
Yes, the filter caps are the large gray capacitors on the right - I would just
go a head and replace all 4. are there any mounted on the other side of
the chassis ? (they may be in a rectangular medal pan looking thing).
precautions - drain the caps:
http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/caps.html
or
| Quote: | The easiest way to drain your filter caps is to warm up the amp and then play the amp. Do not shut the amp off with the power switch or the standby switch. Just unplug the amp from the wall and keep strumming your guitar until the sound dies away.
Once the sound dies down, the voltage in the filter caps will be below a level that can hurt you. There will still be a small voltage present in the caps but it is not enough to give you a nasty shock. Typically there is less than 20 volts is in the filter cap after draining it this way. |
Quote from: http://www.el34world.com/schematics.htm
test the filter caps before replacing? Not to my knowledge. Usually old
or bad caps have domed or rounded ends, but not all the time. If peavey
told you that might be the problem, its a cheep and easy step one to see
if it'll fix your amp.
to order caps, I would either get them from:
www.mouser.com (the first place I usually look for resistors, caps, etc.)
OR
http://www.hoffmanamps.com/ (the place I look for more amp specific items.)
another good place for parts is:
http://angela.com/ (good for misc. amp parts & in my opinion THE place
to get hammond transformers)
If you want to do a "good job", you are correct and you will take the board
out and replace the caps - OR, just as viable if you do it neatly, when you
clip the caps off (MAKE NOTE OF POLARITY) leave some lead and use that
for a mechanical connection, and solder the old lead to the new lead - does
that make any sense at all? I can see it in my head.... |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:25 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | are there any mounted on the other side of
the chassis ? |
Peavey said there's 4 filter caps, 2 big and two smaller ones and I don't see any others so that must be all.
| Quote: | Usually old
or bad caps have domed or rounded ends, but not all the time. |
The two bigger ones are domed out a bit on the top end of them. So I'll assume it's safe to say the filter caps need replaced (they probably never have been replaced).
| Quote: | does
that make any sense at all? I can see it in my head.... |
Yes, it makes perfect sense to just clip the leads and solder the new ones to them. That may be an easier route to go actually.
Last edited by R88223 on Mon Nov 10, 2008 11:07 am; edited 3 times in total |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:40 am Post subject: |
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| I've got the caps out, but there's no positive or negative markers on them (+ -).. one end is black and the other end is silver though.. so I'm guessing the black is negative and the silver positive? Looks like I can get all the parts from mouser for $9.20 before shipping cost. |
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tw001_tw Fierce Poodle

Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 278 Location: St. Louis
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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| R88223 wrote: | | I've got the caps out, but there's no positive or negative markers on them (+ -).. |
Its a little hard to tell from our reference picture, but:
1 - there should be a black line which is comprised of arrows with a
negative symbol going from end to end - this points towards the negative
end of the cap.
2 - you should see towards one end of the capacitor a dip, or ridge, or.... what
ever you want to call it, this end should be the positive end.
Judging from the picture, the positive side is 'up' and the negative is down.
9.20+ s/h.. not bad for 4 filter caps. Sounds like you got things under
control! excellent!  |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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| tw001_tw wrote: |
Its a little hard to tell from our reference picture, but:
1 - there should be a black line which is comprised of arrows with a
negative symbol going from end to end - this points towards the negative
end of the cap. |
Yeah I see the lines and arrows both on my caps as well as on the ones I'll order from mouser. The negative and positive was opposite of what I was guessing so the positive side will be on top and negative on the bottom. Thanks. I guess I'll go ahead and buy those parts when I get paid friday. I'll post in the next couple weeks whether everything worked or not.
I guess the only downside is that I'm moving out into an apartment soon and I won't be able to crank the amp as loud as I used to, 130W of tube power can make a lot of noise . I'll have to leave the volume at 0.5 to 1 probably . |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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The new capacitors fixed the issues.  |
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tw001_tw Fierce Poodle

Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 278 Location: St. Louis
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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| R88223 wrote: | The new capacitors fixed the issues.  |
Excellent !!
$9.20 + s/h on a few caps.. not bad to get it back up and going, eh?
Good job! Post some pics of your hand work if you get a chance. |
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R88223 Not So Newbie
Joined: 07 Nov 2008 Posts: 9
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Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 11:24 am Post subject: |
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| I would but I really don't feel like taking it apart again, the thing is so *Holy Censor, Batman* heavy. last time I took it out of the chassis I accidentally dropped it and some of the tubes popped out. After you unscrew it from the chassis you've got to pull it pretty hard to get it out so that's why that happened..but, the tubes still worked perfect even after popping out of the sockets and bouncing off a hardwood floor. I guess Sovtek makes some solid tubes. I did end up just clipping the capacitors off and soldering the old leads to the new ones, worked out great, there's just a tiny little ball of solder between the old and new leads. Works like new. I'm thinking of maybe changing the scorpion speakers out now actually though. I have a Behringer vintage tube monster overdrive pedal that I put a Sovtek 12ax7 in. It's a great pedal because it doesn't tonally change the sound, just overdrives/distorts it nicely but unless I crank the amp volume way up the Scorpion speakers really kind of sound transparent like it'd be better for a PA system, you know? I figured since it's an American amp maybe I should go with some Eminence Texas Heats or Swamp Thing speakers and maybe that will give the amp a bit more character. That'll be a different project for a different day though. |
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